Koper is a university town, looking a little forlorn for want of its former glory as Capodistria (Capo d’Istria, meaning the head of Istria in Italian). This sleepy little corner of Slovenia was once under the auspices of the mighty naval power that was Venice. A doge was appointed to oversee this area, whose palace now lends Tito Square some gravitas.
Along with its neighbouring towns of Piran, Izola and Portorož, Koper revels in its fine weather (rarely dipping below 8 degrees Celsius in the winter). The region is where Slovenians from other parts of the country flock to, for an idyllic beach escape.
Slovenia was part of the former Yugoslavia which includes Croatia, Bosnia Herzegovina, Montenegro, Serbia and Macedonia. It was considered the wealthier part, with its grander cities and industries. Nicer architecture can be seen Slovenia has since rebadged itself as the ecotourism capital of Europe. Indeed, Ljubljana (the capital) was accorded the status of ‘European Green Capital‘ in 2016 by the European Union. The land is lushly carpeted in green and beautiful canopies shade highways from the benevolent sun.
Wine is grown everywhere with the south boasting rich reds while the north tempts with its whites. Olive trees are bountiful – typical of the Mediterranean. Orchards of ‘golden apples’ or persimmons or Sharon fruit are a source of local pride; each fruit is large and juicy.
Nearby Piran is the historical centre of the Slovenian coast, with its City walls and fortifications providing a smashing lookout over the historic settlement and the neighbouring towns. St George Cathedral claims an identical replica of the original Tower in St Mark’s Square in Venice before it was destroyed by earthquake. Climb up to the bell tower if you want to relive medieval Venetian glory.
Tartini Square is named after the Piran’s famous son, Giuseppe Tartini, who became an accomplished Baroque violinist and composer, hanging around with the likes of Mozart. He is the first known owner of a Stradivarius violin. His composition, Il Trillo di Divolo (The Devil’s Trill Sonata) is still a challenge to violinists the world over. In fact, Tartini is used on everything here.
Piran is also famous for its fine salt, produced in salt lakes in nearby Strunjan. Venetian considered Slovenian salt to be of the best quality and today, many of the top dining establishments in Venice still order directly from Piran and its larger southern neighbour, Sečovlje.
Speaking of south, Portorož is the play town of the coast – modern, brash, and typical of seaside towns and resorts the world over with the requisite bars, restaurants and nightlife that one might expect of a cruise ship stop. Massive liners dock everyday to let off tourists who spread on day excursions, including the famous caves at Postojna.
Food-wise, coastal Slovenia is a revelation. The seafood is so fresh that you swear you can taste sea foam. Having been colonised by the Greeks and then by the Italians, their influences are definitely unmistakeable. Whilst the staple of pizzas and pastas are everywhere, simple dishes like soups, salads and fish have that homely feel about them, and after a hearty meal, you will still leave the restaurant feeling light on your feet.
The capital of Ljubljana is only an hour or so away, so that will be a future destination.
How to get to Koper and the Slovenian Coast
You can fly into Ljubljana and take a bus or transfer service to Koper. Alternatively, you can fly into Trieste airport, and then get a bus or a transfer service to Koper (journey time of 30 to 45 minutes). I flew British Airways into Venice Marco Polo Airport (you can also fly into Treviso with a low cost airline like RyanAir or Wizz Air). I used an airport transfer service like GoOpti which took about 2 and a half hours to reach Koper.
Where to Stay
There are plenty of hotels and B&Bs, but I opted for an AirBnB property, which was very central and very well-catered for the business traveller (thanks, Lili).
Where to Eat
Lemonade here is freshly squeezed lemons – unlike Italy, where half the time, they bring out a bottle of Fanta. Seafood is the big draw here, and portions are mostly generous.
If you fancy something upmarket and fancy, try Capra – compared to the rest of the restaurants here, it’s like dining in a Michelin-star establishment with the accompanying prices.
If you want something more rustic and homely, I am happy to recommend Gostilna Pri Tinetu, which serves excellent seafood.