Bulgaria has a history of over 6000 years. That’s quite a feat. From the Thracians through to the Bulgars, Greeks, Romans, Turks and Russians, Bulgarian culture has amassed an amazing potpourri of heritage and traditions melded into one unique identity.
Sofia is typically large, with its wide boulevards, Russian-inspired tower blocks and people. What’s interesting is the sheer number of trees everywhere. This makes the city different and it feels very Parisian in many respects. Despite the constant streams of cars, Bulgarian drivers are wonderfully polite and will stops soon as a pedestrian lifts a leg to step onto the road.
The Square of Faiths is a testament to the city’s illustrious past, being home to a Catholic Church, an Orthodox basilica, a Byzantine mosque, and a Jewish synagogue. Named after the Greek goddess of wisdom personified, Sofia was once called Serdica by the Romans. It is renowned for its rejuvenating thermal springs and baths. Indeed, the Romans exploited this natural wealth by erecting many public baths here. It was the second home of Constantine the Great.
In the centre of the country, south of the capital, is the second largest city – Plovdiv – which has even more going for it historically. With a well-preserved Old Town, you can see the old Roman Stadium built into the fabric of the city, as well as the ancient amphitheatre.
It will be 2019’s European Capital of Culture and deservedly so. With history oozing out of its pores, Plovdiv used to be called Philippopolis, after Philip, the Macedonian king and father to the great Alexander. Once you get past all the modern high-street shops which you find all over the world, you start to see the small winding lanes up and down the hills of Plovdiv. Here, you will find plenty of artisanal shops – craftspeople plying their trade in the traditional vein with time-honed expertise in their blood. Silver and goldsmiths create delicate but delectably gorgeous jewellery; leather is cut and stitched intricately; and wood is gently shaped into aesthetically-pleasing practical items.
Of course, one mustn’t forget that the relatively unspoilt land all around this green country yields abundant treasures which are then savoured in palate-orgasmic sustenance. We have to eat after all, and if we must, why not eat the best?
From mountain herbs to the snails in the garden, the Bulgarians have turned necessity into enjoyment. Even breads from the local deli or baker are full of flavour, unlike the bland starchy gloop you get in most supermarkets in the “West”. Soups are refreshingly filled with the ingredients from which they are made, not from powdered stock. True, there are pedestrian places here, like anywhere else, but if you veer far enough from the high streets, you will find places with real pride in their work, not from the chanting of a corporate and socially-accepted mantra.
The country has both feet in religion, and the Orthodox Church is strong here. There are lots of beautiful churches and monasteries all over the country. We were lucky to visit the famous Bachkovo Monastery just outside Plovdiv. As a centre of pilgrimage, it is one of the largest and oldest Orthodox monasteries in Europe. I can appreciate its importance and the surrounding beauty. However, the monks should be whipped off their lazy butts for lounging around while the place falls to bits. Everywhere was in a state of repair or disrepair, with workmen kicking around like je ne sais quoi.
The frescos in the main chapel were blackened from centuries of candle smoke and workmen were in the middle of installing a huge, clumsy-looking exhaust contraption to extract the smoke from future candles. The monastery stank of something vile, and in the courtyard, we found three sorry-looking goats cooped up in a pen probably awaiting their execution on some Feast day. All this in a location with unparalleled views of the mountains and the nearby town merely demonstrates how out-of-touch religious organisations can be. OK, rant over.
Bulgaria is famous for one other thing, of course. Its roses are not only bloomingly beautiful, they smell heavenly. Thus, a whole section of the population is dedicated to the cultivation and ‘smellification’ of roses. Rose water, rose essences and perfume – they form a huge industry. Cheaper to buy here in Bulgaria, they are horrendously expensive elsewhere and understandably so. As I sit here typing, I have a tiny drop of rose oil (thanks, Matina) on the pulse of my wrist. It hasn’t lost its character after 6 hours and I think fondly of my time in the Rose of the Balkans.
