Split has a population of 200,000 which makes it much larger than Dubrovnik. Home to the UNESCO-heritage Diocletian’s Palace, it’s a buzzy cosmopolitan city and the gateway to the famous islands of Hvar, Brac and Korcula. The city is just under 2000 years old, founded off the back of an old Greek and Roman settlement called Salona.
Like many Mediterranean cities, there is a big huge promenade by the sea affectionately called Riva. While not exhorbitantly expensive compared to say St Tropez, you can just buy a cheap drink and sandwich and sit on one of the many sea-facing benches instead.
The ferry port and bus terminal is at one end of Riva, and at the other end, the Marjan hills (worth the claim and walk to get a bird’s eye view of Split and to get away from the hustle and bustle of the city and its tourists).
Diocletian’s Palace (or what’s left of it) is a wonderful example of how to make history relevant to today (take note, Rome). The ruins of the Third century complex have been incorporated into modern buildings and architecture, so you find shops, banks and restaurants built in and around the former Emperor’s residence. It’s a great use of space so that you don’t just stare at what used to be, but continue to live among living history.
Although agriculture has nose-dived in Croatia, there is still an emphasis on fresh and good food. Thus, near Marejuska Beach, there is a fish market built amid the sulphur wells which first drew Diocletian to Split (and keeps the flies away from the fish). At the other end is a fresh fruit and vegetable market, where it was closer to get to the farmland outside of the city.
There is an artisanal market on the promenade daily (up to 8pm) where you can buy local produce and handicrafts such as hand-drawn silk scarfs, satchels of fresh herbs, olives, and local honey. If you are going on to Dubrovnik, it may be better to pick up your souvenirs here as they are often cheaper than what you get further south.
Split is home to lots of great restaurants, and for lovers of seafood like me, a veritable foodie heaven. Being closer to the Istrian peninsular means that you can get the opportunity to try out Istrian style cooking.
There are more things to see and do on day trips from Split than in Dubrovnik. For example, there are many National Parks (Krka, Plivice, etc) where you can go walking or hiking, or just to play in the crystal clear waters. The abundance of gorgeous islands all around mean there is plenty of sun, sea and fun for those so inclined. Activities such as kayaking, river rafting, rock climbing, canyoning, and other adventures are easy to get into. I did the sea kayaking in Dubrovnik and decided to focus on other less strenuous activities in Split.
Last but not least, I headed back to Dubrovnik on the catamaran operated by Kapetan Luka. The boat itself is air-conditioned, has comfortable seats, and operates a small cafeteria (not a terribly impressive selection of food, it has to be said). Caveat: if you are easily seasick, do not take this. The winds had picked up on the day I left and the sea was rather choppy. The only time it stayed calm was when the boat was going on the stretch of water between Mlijet Island and the mainland, which was somewhat protected from the wind blowing from the south. That said, it is a good option if you want to island hop because the catamaran stops at Brac, Hvar, and Mlijet islands. It is a lot faster than the Jadrolinija ferry service (the Split-Dubrovnik service no longer operation).
The ferry cost 190 kuna one-way. The bus from Dubrovnik to Split cost 75 kuna each way. Note that you have to cross a 24km stretch of Bosnian territory through the town of Neum, hence, you will require a passport to travel. Inspection was quick and painless with the border guards coming on board the bus.
