Malta apparently is the most culturally and historically rich place in Europe, measured by ‘density’ per square mile. This is why I was incredibly excited about my trip there.
Its history stretches way back to even before the Phoenicians arrived, with some tombs and temples being older than the pyramids at Giza. The most indelible influences are those inspired by the Italians (specifically the Romans and later, the Sicilians), the Arabs, the Knights Hospitaller, and the British. Despite Napoleon Bonaparte’s very brief stint on the island, the French even managed to install Malta’s very first constitution, revamp the entire educational system, and abolish slavery.
All these cosmopolitan influences make for a unique culture and language. The Maltese language is of Semitic origin, albeit written in Latin script. It contains elements of Arabic, Italian, French and English.
One of the first things you notice when you get to Valletta, its capital, is the formidable fortification all over. The Knights Hospitaller were given Malta by the Spanish after being ousted from their homes in Jerusalem and then Greece. The islands proved to be the right place for the marine-savvy Knights who immediately started turning the islands into fortress cities. When the British were called to intervened the Maltese after the French invaded, they too, decided that Malta was of strategic importance to them. In fact, Malta nearly became part of Britain – the only Commonwealth country to be considered for this.
There is too much history to go into and much of this can be read online at other sites (see below for some). Instead, I’ll point out some interesting sights and a few observations.
History before your eyes
You can’t help but marvel at the wonderful architecture all around and let it drive you to learn more about each thing.
Visitors to Malta should try to watch the Inguardia performance which takes place on some Sunday’s at Fort St Elmo. This is a reenactment of the inspection of the Fort St Elmo by the Grand Bailiff, with faithful reproductions of costumes and armour. It’s a colourful display of pomp and circumstance and you can even take selfies with the actors before and after the show. It takes 45 minutes and you can get tickets at there of the Fort. Be warned, there is no shade, and in the summer months, this might get a tad hot!
One under-promoted gem is the Fortress Builders exhibition which is very close to the ferries to Sliema port in Valletta. It is free, and shows you how forts and castles were built. It is quite breathtaking (and scary) how creative the human mind can get when it comes to the art of war.
I was lucky enough to visit the Sal Haflieni Hypogeum just before it was closed for intensive restoration work. With my interest in pre-history, I found myself second-guessing why an ancient civilisation would create a megalithic underground ossuary (burial place for human bones) to store over 7000 human remains. Due to its fragile nature, the Hypogeum was lit sparsely, which took some getting used to. The audio guides were very good, but there was no opportunity for asking questions. The Hypogeum is a UNESCO heritage site.
There are also the wonderful megalithic temples at Tarxien (featuring the most elaborate Stone Age sculpture in Malta), Hagar Qim, and Mnajdra. On the island of Gozo, there are also the Ggantija Temples (once believed to be the home of a race of Giants).
For Christians, there are more churches and Cathedrals than you can throw a stick at. The most famous one is in the centre of Valletta – the Co-Cathedral of St John, which looks ordinary outside but is a glittery affair inside. Adorned with gold, silver and precious gems, the Cathedral is definitely worth a visit. Furthermore, it boasts two magnificent Carravagio paintings – The Beheading of John the Baptist (to whom the Cathedral is dedicated) and St Jerome Writing. Incidentally, Carravagio was made a knight briefly, before fleeing and being expelled from the Order in disgrace. The Beheading of John the Baptist is the largest known Carravagio painting, and it features the only signature of this controversial artist (in the blood spelling from John’s neck, no less).
The ghost-town-like city of Mdina is worth a visit. The former capital of Malta still retains its cobble-street charm with quaint restaurants and various historical attractions, although I found the citadel in Gozo more interesting.
St Paul himself was said to have been shipwrecked between Gozo and big island, and was impressed by the hospitality of the locals who warmed and fed him. There are various touristy stops about where he has been on the island. Legend goes that he went to Zejtun, a now very religious town in the middle of the island but when he left, he dusted the sand off his feet to cleanse himself of the town who refused to be converted.
Malta is strongly Roman Catholic, so every saint gets his or her own Feast, and the corresponding requisite celebrations. I was there in Floriana during the Feast of St Publius (who was the first Maltese person to convert to Christianity). A chance meeting with the priest on the day before the events meant I could go in and look around the church uninterrupted, and contrast it with the following day when it was all lit up in lights, flowers and song. A statue of the virgin is removed one week prior and is brought back to the church via a procession through the streets. After the evening mass, live entertainment outside the Church of St Oublius got people clapping and dancing, despite the nip of the chilling wind. At 10pm, a fireworks display stirred the crowd even more.
Maltese Moments 2: Photographable
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