At first glance, Lanzarote is stark, barren and rocky. The main greens are palm trees which line the roads of the major towns and the myriad varieties of cacti sprouting from the dark earth.
The furthest east of the major Canary Islands, Lanzarote is unique. Its middle is dominated by hills and mountains, created by volcanic activity. On the fateful night in 1730, a gigantic volcano rose out of the earth and began spewing lava. Eruptions continued for nearly 6 years. It decimated the nearby villages, and shaped the future and landscape of the island as we now know it.
To fully appreciate the majesty and the horror of a volcano, you should not miss a trip to the Timanfaya National Park. The entrance ticket includes a 30-minute bus ride into the heart of the park. The recording in Spanish, English and German provides a fascinating insight into the park’s eerie environment which many have likened to the surface of the moon. “Experiments” are conducted which show how hot the earth’s core still is, and you can try barbecued chicken cooked from the heat of an open ground pit. If you fancy the heat, you can also choose to go on a camel ride. The best thing about the park is that no one is allowed to go in on their own. The tourist authority offers free guided walking tours in English and Spanish, but you have to book on their website months in advance.
Lanzarote does Eco-tourism well. A visionary architect by the name of Cesar Manrique decided to showcase the rugged natural environment to its fullest. Working with the approval of the government, he created structures which harnessed the beauty of the lava rock and bubbles. The most picturesque parts of the island were carefully designed to provide visitors with a unique experience. For example,there are many lookout points on the island providing great vistas, of which, the most famous is Mirador del Rio. On a clear day, you can see across to La Graciosa, in the Chinijo Archipelago. Sadly, on the day I visited, the warm and cold currents in the Atlantic collided to create a thick mist which even the gale force winds could not shift. Luck of the draw, I guess.
Just as fascinating is the Cuervas de los Verdes, a series of underground caves created by lava flowing through a canyon. The tour is led by knowledgeable guides who speak Spanish and English. Well worth the money (and the long wait in the unforgiving sun)!
Another Manrique creation, Jameos del Agua boasts tiny albino crabs which can only be found in the crystal clear waters of the rock pool here.
You can buy a 4-site pass (valid for 7 days) for the Timanfaya National Park, and a choice between Mirador del Rio, the Cactus Farm, Cuevas de Los Verdes and Jameos del Agua for €27.
Being an island, there are beaches all around. Bear in mind that the Canaries are in the Atlantic, and the sea temperature is colder than in the Mediterranean. Still, after purposefully plunging into the water, you should be able to swim quite nicely. The wind, though, is strong and incessant. This can lead to some pretty big waves which are perfect for surfers of all kind (wind, kite and normal). I preferred the sheltered beaches because they also provided an opportunity for snorkelling and seeing the abundant sea life. Not too far away from Yaiza, is El Golfo, which is home to a strange-looking lake made of seawater. It is bright green, due to the algae growing in it, and was a setting for 1,000,000 Years BC which shot Raquel Welch to fame.
One of my most amazing experiences on this trip was diving under the ocean with a submarine! I kid you not. Designed and built in Finland and painted yellow (yes, they play the Beatles at the end of the tour), you sit and watch through cameras and large round windows as you descend up to 35 metres under the sea. Schools of fish such as bream, grouper, mullet, and barracuda swim alongside and all around the sub. If you keep your eyes peeled, you will spot soles, stingrays and moray eels. The company employs two divers who play with a friendly manta ray providing a highly immersive (sorry!) experience. Beats going to Seaworld, I tell you.
The island’s first resort, Puerto del Carmen is a bustling place with an old town. Plenty of restaurants dot the place, like the other resort areas of Costa Teguise and Playa Blanca. There seems to be more Italian eateries than Spanish ones, but the food is generally very good everywhere, and fairly reasonable.
We stayed in Costa Teguise, which is quite family-friendly and less noisy than some of the other places. Having said that, Lanzarote is pleasantly peaceful and not filled with drunken louts and lewd hens. Our apartment was wonderfully-furnished, and service everywhere has been warm and helpful. It was generally quiet and peaceful, and handy to walk to the shops and the beaches. I highly recommend this place.
All in all, I would definitely recommend Lanzarote as a worthwhile destination, not just for activities (I didn’t bother with any of the theme or safari parks, although people have told me they are great – especially for kids), but also, if you want to have a relaxing holiday. The weather was very hot in August, but it wasn’t unbearable. Food was generally good and reasonably-priced. Crucially, it wasn’t humid.
I flew British Airways in business class (Ho-hum service out, much better on the way back, and no lounge in Lanzarote!!!). Car rental was very cheap and fuel efficient (€84 for 3 days with full insurance even if you get into an accident; we filled the car up on the first day for €25 and used up only half the tank despite all the driving around the island). Taxi to Costa Teguise cost €18, and we used a mini-bus from First Minute Holidays for €10 (up to 4 passengers).
Other Links
- Autos Guayre Car Rental – +34 618739848 (speak to Luis).
- Apartmentos El Guarapo
- Timanfaya National Park
- British Airways
- Submarine Safaris
- First Minute Transfers