The mountain roads were steep and the turns were sharp. One marvelled at how those goats with their jangly bells could navigate those heights without fear of falling.
We had to cross a mountain range to get from Sparta to Kalamata. Those in the know already recognise the name “Kalamata” as the fertile land of the olives. Nearing our destination, we came across a car with flat tyres, so we gave one of the passengers a lift into town with their tyre. It was our good deed for the day.
Kalamata is big and bustling. It is on the sea, so briny air made a change from the alpine air we had had the day before.
We met up with Anneta, a dentist and homeopath (what a combo!) who had prepared a wonderful lunch of roast lamb, potatoes, salad and fresh bread. Her 20 year old son, Konstantinos, had just completed his mandatory army training. We talked about the role of food in nutrition and health, and how it can be a complete remedy. Greeks believe that everything should be fresh – literally from field to table. Even Anneta made her own olive oil.
In the afternoon, we took a drive to Costa Navarino, a luxurious resort for the rich and wealthy. It had been the dream of a rich shipping magnate but he died before its completion. Now, it belongs to the Starwood portfolio of hotel brands such as the Shangri-La and the Sheraton. Everything was immaculate and pretty, as you would expect, but it felt rather soulless – unkindly, it felt like an exclusive escape for well-heeled geriatrics or the moneyed socially-inept.
By the time we drove back to Kalamata, it was beginning to get dark. The seafront was long and pretty, with an esplanade for walking or running. Everyone was out and about making full use of the balmy weather. We checked out various places before deciding to head to a fish restaurant. As everything is cooked in the oil made from Kalamata olives, it just tasted delicious. Among friends and camaraderie, with a potiri krasi (glass of wine), life is just beautiful.
Just as Odysseus returned to his faithful Penelope, so too shall I return to this verdant land of warmth, generosity and abundant nourishment.
Note: I had taken many more photos with my phone, but it got stolen upon my return. 🙁